Signal update...
Last night, after I updated the blog, I routed the wires down from the signal heads to the bottom of the signal bridge.
I worked on wiring up the signals this morning and again this afternoon. First, I had to separate the wire bundles. There is a silver or magnet wire (positive) and then two or three brass wires depending on the signal head. Next, you have to tin the magnet wire to remove the insulation. To do this, you get a bead of solder on your soldering iron tip and run the end of the wire through it. Very easy. Nothing to worry about.
So, then I started testing. I wanted to see an LED lit up! Using just alligator clips is extremely difficult. This wire is hair thin. It's unreal how small it is. Playing around with it, I finally got one to light up! We have light! Sweet!
So, then I decided to solder some 22 gauge wires to the end of the signal head wires in hopes of making a better connection allowing me to test better as well prepare for installation on the layout. Well, I was distracted by something, came back in the room and connected the 12v power source. Quick flash of the LED and then out. I couldn't get anything else. I look to see I forgot to use a resistor. Doh! I believe that head is fried. I couldn't get anymore light out of it.
Unwired that damaged head and installed another one. I will have to order a replacement for the other signal bridge at Utica.
I added in a permanent resistor in my testing wires and tried again. I was able to get two heads' wires soldered to my 22 gauge wires and tested without any issue. It was going well at this point. I then went back to the head that had to be installed for the one I damaged. I struggled with getting the head on the 3/64" brass rod. I finally got it connected. I then went to connect the wires to my 22 gauge wires. This time I was having somewhat a difficult time getting a good connection. I don't know what it is about this micro wires on the signals, but you don't simply touch a power source to them. You have to wrap the signal head wires around the 22 gauge wire, hold your breath just right and sacrifice a RI sand hopper in hopes of making a connection. WTH? Once a good connection could be found and soldered, no issue. Finding that sweet spot was another thing. I struggled with this, but managed to get all of the third head lit.
Things went downhill further on the fourth head. Struggling for about 50 minutes, I managed to get two of the three colors lit on the signal head, but can't get the green aspect to light for some reason. I can't tell if it is bad or just not making a good connection.
It was time to go to dinner at this point, so I left it.
Today, I worked on it some more. Now, the third head that was working, won't light one of the aspects. I don't know why. Nothing has changed regarding the resistor so it shouldn't have blown. I worked and worked on it. Nothing. I ended up removing the fourth head as it will be returned.
I tried test lighting them again. Nothing. My frustration level is really high at this point. I'm not sure what my next plan of action will be, but I'm not pleased right now.
Turnout Repair Desk
I repaired four turnouts that were damaged this evening. I knew of two that had to be repaired. Lately, I have been going around on a regular basis checking turnouts. You often don't see it until you switch a turnout from normal to reverse (or opposite). So, in one of my recent checks, I found two more. It's a relatively easy fix that doesn't take long, but yet again, still frustrating. I then roll a cut of cars over the fixed turnout to watch how smooth they glide across the turnouts and feel good again. Hence, my love/hate relationship with these turnouts. I keep thinking to myself, eventually, all the turnout points will break and I will have repaired them. I've never had one break after I repaired it. Then, maybe I can rest at ease. Until then, it will always be an annoying thorn in my side.
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